Thread-controlling mechanism for sewing-machines.



' 1%. 815.597. I PATENTED' DEC. 31, 1907.

W. NQPARKES.

THREAD CONTROLLING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MAORI-NBS.-

'APPLIOATION FILED 001:.10, 1899.

BBHEBTS-BKEBTI 1.

WITNESSES R m V Q YINVENTOIH rq i a %A/Z ;M% M

' PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907 0 8 SHEETS- SHEET 2.

W. N. PARKES.

APPLICATION FILED 00110, 1899.

f i: o A, 0

THREAD CONTROLLING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MAGHI INBS.

wimfssss PATENTED BBQ-31; 1907.

VINVENTOHI fw. N. PARKES.

APPLICATION FILED 0( 7T.10, 1899.

THREAD CONTROLLING MECHANISM FORSBWING MACHINES.

'w/messEs' No; 875,597. fflIPATENTED DEC. 31, 1907.

' w. N. PARKESQ- THREAD OONTBQOYLLTIQNG MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

APPLIQATIOH FILED 00T.10, 1899.

' "6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

'ilm

i mum v 'PATENTED DEC. 31, 1907, w N. PARKBS.

THREAD CONTROLLING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES.

' AIiPLIUAT ION FILED 0013.10, 1899.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

PATE-NTED DEC. 31, 1907.

misvsgssv;

w. N.-PAB,KES. THREAD CONTROLLING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES;

Ar'P IoAnpn rum 0OT.10.'1899;

6 SHEETS-SHEET 8- \\\\\\\R\IIIIIIIIIIHI llllllllllllllllllrlll' I STATES A NT; OFFroE,

, WI LIAM u rAiiriss, OF its YORK; N. Y.

i Specification of Letters Patent.

l frnREAD-coivino mNG .MEcHl 'nrs roR s wmemcm'misp Patented nea eid ao'zi i 3 Original application filed September 12. 1898, Serial No. 690.777. Divided and this ap lication-filed October 1t. 139a Serial No.

-To all whom it mag "concern: Be it known that I, W'iLLIAM-NQPARKES, a citizen of the United-States of'A'merica, ,residing' at New York, borough of Brooklyn, 51in the county of Kings and State of New Y;'ork,' have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Thre ad-Controlling' -Mech-.

V wlowingisa specificationp y On September 12th, 1898, I filed an application, Serial No. 690,777 for a patent on a anism for Sewing Machines, ofwhich the folbuttonhole sewing machine, and on Sep-' 1 flf'rom oneto'the other side of'said buttonholei Tlie"mechar'iism for changing-the extent of'the lateral movement of. the needle for'the end stitches, and for changing the vorkingside of the hole", is operated from themovepo'sition of the needle from one to the other ment ioi'ja single ratchet Wheel, and the mechanis'mifor moving the 'Work' to dispose. the stitches longitu'din'allyofthe hole is operated from the movement of a single ratchet'wheel, I It 'hole are made durlng one half ,ofacycleof Q0 and these 'wheels are mounted and operated ,separately'from each other. "Means-are profirst ratchet and the mechanism'cperated by it, goes out of action simultaneously w th the {beginning offthe'side stitches of the hole.

- 'Fort,clearness in this application the first 'm'entioned'ratchet Wheel and th-emechanism; "operatedbyit will be, called the needle and fold. Through its: act-ionsthe eytent ofltliieg lateral inoveni'entof the needleisjpositively subject matter of my present application.

v vided intermediate said Wheels whereby thefirst Wheel is caused to go into action front 40 the movement of a part of'themechanism I operated by the second wheel, and the said;

stitch change mechanism, andthe seconfd: tension changedevice;

and rapidly increased from the side-stitches to the end stitches, and ra idly-'andv' positively-decreased fromthe en stitches to the side stitches. And simultaneously with the change'from' the side stitches-to the/mend stitches the Working position of the needle'60 is posith'ely shiftedto a central position at the end of the hole, and after the stitching at theend'is completed, the Workin position of the needle is again positively sh fted to a; a; side stitching POSltiOIIL" .It' is thus seen that the function of increasing and decreasing the extent of'the lateral movement of the needle, and the function of shiftin laterally the v working position of the need e is performed by thismechanisrn. The thirdfunction performed by this mechanism is that-of o.perat- 'ing positively. a device for changing the tensionon the thread, and this mechanism adapted to perform said third function is the '75 In my said present application theparts that act to change the tension on the thread will be called the tension change lparts or mechanism, The stitches positioned throngh 1 a the action of: the needle and stitch change ,mechanism. will be called the end stitcl1es .,of

, the button-hole, and 1 the .Iother stitches Will be called the side stitches. In connection with this definition'it is noted that the needle] and stitch change mechanism, only 'actsjat the ends ofthe button hole.

- In the machine shown anddescribed in my said former patent and my present applicar tion, the stitchesxat one end of the button- 'mechanism. During the stitching of the sides of the button-hole none of the cycle of movement of said needle and stitch change mechanism is used, so it Willbe'understood that the use-of this mechanismis l ept, intact for its special purposesorobiects, and o'ne'of these'objects is as before stated to. operate a The tension. change dei ice herein shown and described is actuated positively in both directions, the tension is reduced by positive IIIOXIIIQ means, and is restored by positive" v l. moving means, and as before noted said 5 means is actuated separately from the'feeding mechanism, and several times as fast as said I mechanism. i

' thread, and to suspen In addition to other obj eots it is noted that 1t.1s an ob ect of this inventionto provide tension on the e action of said mechanism for chan-gin tl th means operated separately Zorn the feeding means during the stitching of the sides of the i of a button hole sewing machine embodying hole.

The nature and further objects of my iiiventionwillbe best understood when described in connection with the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is, a front view my invent: n,.Fig. 2 a rear view and Fig. 3 an end view of the same, Fig. 4 is a detail sectional vie v on an enlar ed scale of one of the tensions. .Fi 5 is a iiottom plan view of the machine. Fi 6 is a sectional view on line xx Fig. 2. F ig. 7 is a section on line .I-yy-Fig. 6. Fig.8, 9 and 10 are details of the operating mechanism. 3

.Similar letters of reference designate correspondin -parts throughout the several viewsof 't 1e drai'vingsl I o TheletterA desi nates the arm of the maohine, B the bed-plate, C the needle bar, D

the gate in which the needle bar is mounted, E the understitching mechan sm, T thedower shaft of the machine, all of which are of the have a aterally vib ating needle. Iw1ll owdescribe the mechanism for oper- -i1su'al coZstruction in sewing machines which ating the work support and for feeding the work longitudinal of the button hole.

/ In suitable bearings at the rear end of the machine is mounted to turn a. shaft h to the rear end of which is attached a ratchet wheel H. To the rear end of a shaft T is attached an arm 1 which has a T shaped groove "2 formed in it, in which one end of a link 3 is i connected, the other end of the said link being connected to a pawl lever i which carries the pawl 5 at its outer end, the said pawl being adapted to en age the ratchet wheel H. Tothe forward en of the shaft 71 is attached a gear'wheel 72 which meshes with a gear turns with the gear in a h'orizont 1 plane. To

the top of the said disk is attached a cam T which is adaptedto be adjusted toward and from the center of 'th'e'tlisk 6 which diskis central with respect to the axis of the gear wheel h A work support which I generally designate by the reference character it" is mounted in suitable bearings and confined thereby so as to reciprocate in a right line and move the work across the path of the To the forward end of the shaft port suitable bearings (not shown) are {provided for engagement with theearn '7.

The abovedscribed mea'ns serve the purpose of feeding the work support and through it the work longitudinal o the button hole; The dam 7 is so'constru'cted that. it givesthe said work sup ort' a uniformly rogressive movement. ,T ie adjustment of the said cam to and from the center of the diskfi de- 75 termines the length of the button hole and the adjustmentof the extent of the stroke of the pawl lever 4 and through it the pawl'5 determines the number of stitches that will" be made along the sides of the button hole. I will now. describe the means which I pref: erably provide for producing the relative jogging movement'necessary in the stitching of button" holes. Thismechanism consists of two parts or divisions; one-gives the jogging movement to theneedle and the other controls the said jogging movement and changes it for the stitching. or bar-ring at the ends of the button hole. In a suitable bearing on'the arm A of the machine, and transverselywith .res ect to- I the same .is mount-eda shaft 9 to. the orward end 'of which is attached an eccentric G. T he'upper end of a lever'F is pivoted on the said eccentric, and the lower'end of the saidlever F is in engagement by means of an ordinary cam follower with a usual savitch cam (not shown) attached to the upper.shaft (notv shown) of the machine. A llnk f s at one end connected in a guide way formupper endof the lever F, the saidguide way ext ending from the axisof the eccentricG upwardly and the end of the said link eing adapted to slide in the same. The link is at its other end attached to the needle ar gate D. v Assuming now that the eccentric G is held from turning, and the end of the link f from changing in the guide-way formed in the lever F, it is evident that the lateral movement of the lever F will transmit a lateral movement of a uniform extent to the needlebar gate, and through it tothe needle-bar and needle. 1 I I 1 I will iiow describe my needle, and stitch change. mechanism, by means of which the extent bfathe lateral movement of the needle is increased for the end stitches and 'de-- cread ed for the side stitches and the working .POSiUOll of the needle shift ed laterally for the end switches, and after said end stitches have been fltade, again shifted laterally to a position for making side stitches. A hearing g" is detachablyconnected to the bed-plate 'B of the machine. In the said 1% bearing is fixed one end of a stud shaft 8 having formed at its rear end a flange'9. On the front end of the said studshaft and next to the bearing ",'is mounted to turn a ratchet wheel \ext to. the said ratchetwheel.

in the 100 formed in one end of a link 17.

and adjustably connected to it by of screws 10 and slots 11 is mounted the Figi7'.)

On the lower shaft T is secured an eccen tric 16 which is encircled bv a yoke or strap The other end of'the said link is connected to the out er end of the pawl lever 14.

to operate the pawl and through it the cam g and 1ts concomitant parts; On the upper end of a bracket 1 8'Wlll0h is secured to the bearing 9 ismOunted a stop awl 19 which is adapted to engage the teet oithewheel g and prevent retrograde movement of the same.

Thefollowing means serve to control the ratchet wheel 9 and thereby prevent undesirable movementsin the same andin the mechanism operated by it. 'In va suitable This means serves "groove of cam g is a friction strap 19*, the

body of the said strap encircling the cam. g in the'saidgroove and having extensions 20 and 21 Fig. 6 projecting outwardly. able friction material is inserted between the 'said strap and the said cam to'produce a frictional contact between them. A spring.

22 is attached at one endto a fixed pin and at the other end to the extension 20. of the strap such that it draws on the strap in a direction opposite to the forward movement of the.

ratchet wheel 9 A screw 23 passes freely through the extension 21'and has its seat in the-extension 20, and serves as a means for regulating the degree of friction between the strap and the cam. The spring 22 and the strap which it acts upon serve as a means for keepingthe teeth of the ratchet wheel 9 1 always in engagement with the stop pawl 19,

so that the Cam 9 is always in its proper position whether at rest or in action.

Alever g suit-ably pivot-ed at g is (at its lower end by means of a friction roller 24 which is attached thereto) .in engagement with the cam groove 12 of the cam 9 One end of alinkg is connected to theother end of the said lever g, and theforward end of the said link g is adjustably held in a grooved way formed in a lever g which latter is aLtached to the rear end oft'heshaft g as shown in Fig. 2. ed on the arm A and liasa cam groove f formedfinits,lower end. Alink f connects inFig. v2. In a suitable bearing. attached to the. arm of themachine and transversely,

Suitattached to its rear end} the said lever .19f",the tension of th p g being A leverf issuitab ly' pivotthe said lever f to the lever g, a also hw being in engagement with the cam groove f by'means of an anti-friction roller To ithefor-ward emlofthe sha'itj" is attached an armj? whi'c 1i has a way formed it's'face. The lower end of a lnik f is 'adjnst'ablyheld i i-the way f and the upper. end fofit l'ielsaid' 'hnk'ls connected to'the link f, and adapted to reciprocate the" same in the way "formed in the upper end of the lever F.

In the periphery of the ratchet wheel g between the teeth are formed gaps-25 and 26,

the slots ,11 being formed therein fo r"the' i purpose of adjusting these'gaps relative to the cam groove 12 of thecaiii g. "011 fthe rear end of the cam g next to the gear wheel h is' a tappet 27 and on the side of the said gear whee h" is .a tappet 2'8 adaptedto engage the tappetIZT. I The gaps 25 aiidl26 serve as means for disengaging the awl 15 from the teeth the ratchetwhee g' 'a11d thereby arresting the movements of the 'said wheel and the mechanism operated by-it, the said tappets' serve as means for brmgmg about a rengagement of the pawl 15 withthe teeth of the ratchet wheel 9 The linkf which connects the arm f with the end of the link f, is made intwo parts as will be seen in Fig. 1, and these parts are adjustable relative to each other; so that-tire link f which comprises them may be inade longer or-shorter.

hold the end of the link'f further from the axis of the pivot of tile lever-F. And tuis of course'causes tire said-lever to transmit a movement of a greater extent to tile connec- 't1on 7, and turougu the same a greater lateral movement to the needle-bargate, the needlebar, andthe ne'edlef Having now described my needle and If itis desired to increase the normal lateral movement of the needle," these-parts areadjusted so as to increase the I length ofthe link f and therebynormally stitch change mechanism}, the operation of the same will be briefly noted v During the stitching of the sides of a button-hole the end of the linkisheld a uniform distanee'from theaxis of the pivot of the lever F, and the, n'eedle'is thereby moved 'laterally a uniform distance.

In practiceat thebegirihing of'the stitching of the first end' of a button-hole. a few stitches are made across said end, then the first 'side of the hole 'is stitched, then all the stitches are completed. a tthe other ei' dof'the hole," thenpthe-seconrl side of the holeis stitched' aiidfinally the hole is finishedby again'making' end stitches at'thfebeginning 'end of the holeyand on top of the stitches previously made. v

I explaining "the workings of tn1s mechan sm letit "be 'as'su r'ned that the/same is operated and stitching along the firstsid'e of the hole; VViie n this is being done the actuating awl But for the purposeof 15 tistbeat ng tfinefin, l y Prep" "0 the 33mg. saidwheel therefore prevents the-increase in the lateral move- 50 across the end of the button-hole.,-an.d the,

the tappet '27 and moves the same so that the first'tooth of the ratchet wheel g 'across the gap 25, comes under the end of the path. of the actuating pawl 15. '(This movement of the ratchet g is only the extent of one of the teeth ofthe same, and the cam and parts operated from the'movement of this wheel are vso-constructed that this movement does not affect them at all.) Simultaneously with the next lateral'movement of the needle the actuating-pawl moves the ratchet wheel pawl.

wheel turns the cam g and through its action gforward the extent of one stroke of said This movementof the said ratchet and the mechanism operated .by. it, the eccentric Gis turned to-move the working position .of the needle towards the, center of the button-hole, Simultaneously with this The cam groove in the cam g 'is so' conmovement of said eccentric the arm J? is moved and through 1t the end of the connection f is moved further from the pivot of the lever F, and at thesame time the said lever F is turned onits pivot by theusual switch cam that operates it, in the opposite Jdirec tion to that in which the eccentric turns. The turning of the eccentric in the opposite direction to .that inwhich the lever F turns ment of the needle which would have taken place b reason of the movement of the end .of the ink f away from the pivotof said lever F. Simultaneously with the next movement of the lever Fon its pivot the cam g" again acts, and the end of the connection f is moved again away from the pivot of said lever F, and simultaneously with this move ment of saidlever the eccentric Giis again turned on its-axis to move the working position of the needle towards-the center of the button-hole, and this movement, this time being in the-same direction in which the needle moves the latter is carried completely first stitch across the same is therebymad without'any intermediate bastard stltches.

structed'that the arts are now held in this I osition until the] esired number of stitches lave beenmade cross the end of the 'button- A N i te Iadjusted orregulated in a usual manner; This tension forms'no part of this invention hole,.when'.sai'd am-again actuates the parts and the needle (1s brought in a position for making the firs stitclron the other side of the button-hol without any intermediate bastard stitche being made.

. In, making the foregoing movements the lever g isturned'on' its pivot in one direction onl y,'firstto the position where the first stltch :two fold. By its movement the lateral movement of the needle is positively in-.

is made across theend of the button-hole.

In reaching this position the lever fiis moved from-one ofaits extreme lateral positions to 'its central position as shown in-Fig. 2., In

reaching this ositlon the said lever is turned on its pivot, which is the shaft f and this movement of said lever turns said shaft,

and through it" the arm ff, the connection f and the end of the connection j; a 'suflicient extent to increase the amplitude of the lateral movement of the needle forthe making of "the endstitches across the end of the buttonhole. After the end stitches have been completed the lever 9 moves again in the same direction as "before, and this movement brings the lever to its extreme lateral position in; the directionit moved before, and when in this osition the roller f is in an extreme end 0 the cam slot f of the said lever f It will now be understood that in moving the part to change from the side stitches to stitches, the lever f moves from one of .its ex-' treme lateral'positions to'the other, and that in making thismovement the cam groove f theend stitches, and back again to the side i'n'said lever causes the lever f 5 to turn in' one direction, and then back again. The function of this lever and the cam groove in it is creased and decreased, and simultaneously with said increase and decrease, the tension change device is operated to decrease, and in crease the tensionon the thread. And the function of the cam g and the lever g isalso two fold. By the movement of the said cam the said lever g is operated, and by the movement'of' the same'the' eccentric G is turned, and the Working position of the'upper'end of the'lever F thereby moved laterally, andthrou'gh the connection between the same-and the needle the latter. is-moved laterally. 3 And in performing this function the said lever 9 also moves the lever f 8 laterally, and thereby increase and decrease the ten-' sion on the thread simultaneously. with the lateral shift'in the working position of the needle.

. Having now explained the workings of the change device, to an extent that it is thought necessary for an understanding of'the same, l will now specify the construction of said tension change device, and the. connection between thesame and the said mechanism.

On the face of the machine is an ordinary Ilium which i designate-as K and whichisexcept .its use with other parts of the tension device, In a suitable location on the face of the machine a second tension device is affixed Whichis composed of the following elements.

In a bearing M on the face of the machine 1 30.

is located astud mcwhich stud runs entire'ly I the said disks through said bearing. The-outer end of this stud is adapted'to carry the tension disks m which are mounted on the outside of the stild by means of a hole formed centrally through A hole ;is formed nearly through the center of the stud m. In the said hole a releasing rod mflhaving an extendinge'nd m loosely vfits. .A 'slot' is made through the forward end. of the stud and-extends'into the hole m Next to the tension .disks on the stud is mounted a releasing plate m which has a portion extend:

ing through the slot m in the stud On the stud next to the releasing plate is atension spring m The outer end ofthe stud m is threaded and on the portipn next to'the' tension s ring is a thumb nut m which is adapted or manually regulating the-tension.

. reason of its comingf'i'nto contact with the,

It is now seen that ifthe rod m is pushed in, it will engage with the releasing" plate m(by portion ,of the said plate which passes through the slot and the hole m )v and re-.

lease the tension disks from the pressure of the s ring m and thereby remove the ten sion roin the thread which passes between the edisks.

. n his tension device'is of an ordinaryconstruct on which is used in machines in which the tension is released from the thread when the pre'sser foot is lifted,-to avoid the'breaking of the thread orthe needle bythe operator in removing the work. It is of course obvious that this or any other suitableltension device may be used in combination with niy invention; y

The following means are provided for au to 'natieally'engaging the end mof the releasing rod and thereby releasing the tension.-

Alever P is pivoted at p and has a cam 19- formed on its forward end'which is; adapt-ed to engage the end 'In of the releasing rod m A link 11 connects the'rear end ofthe lever]? with the forward end of the lever f When the forward G'Ild of the lever f is raised the forward end of the lever P is lowered and the cam 10 formed thereon is brought into en! gagementwith the end m of the releasing rod m r In, the operation of l-thistensi'on chang'elde vice, the tension K is regulated to-produce the desired tensidn for the end stitches, and

the tension, which is called a secondlt'ension' in the sp'eqification', is regulated so 'as-to produce the additional tension'de'sired 'on'the' Ithread' during the making of the stitches along the side ofthe hole. As the lever 9 moves from'one of its positions to the position shown inF-ig; 2, the cam lever f 8 is moved from one of its lateralpositions to the position 1n which 1t ls'shown 1n said figure, and inmoving to this position'the I said lever f turns the lever f on its pivot. This movement ofthe lever f pushes the .At the time this action takes place the sion W1 connection 12 upwardly and causes'the cam orsincli'ne 19 formed on tne'forw'ard end of said lever the threadffrom' the second tension device. arts have reached the position shown in sai Fig.

2, and tueyremainm'this position until'the endstitches. at one-end of the button-hole have been completed. After the said end to engage'the plungermfl arid vthereby release all the tensionproduced on stitches havebeen completed, the lever g is mo'veddn the same direction it moved before to one of itsextre'me lateral positionsj'a'nd" th s movement of said lever moves the cam lever f 8 in the same direction it moved before tonne of itsextrelne' later'alpositions, and

through this movement the cam f is caused to act, and the lever P is moved in the oppo .site direction to that in which it moved be fore. And this movement ofthe lever P- disengages its end 10 from the second tension device, and the tension of the same is thereby restored to the thread. z

It is to be noted that the movement of the lever g from one'of its e'xtremdateral positions to the other automatically .and posiwith these movements the tension on the threadisdecreased and increased, and all-,-

from the movementof said ,-lever g from. one

of. its extreme lateral'positions to the other.

Inbutton-hole machmes it is desirable to have all the tensionon the needle thread r'emoved-from the s'ame at thefinishing of a button-hole, so that the workmay berea'dily removed without breaking the said threador needle.

through the tension, there is a liability of; the thread breaking, and also by reason of the by broken.

- One of the objec'tsofapplicantsdevice'as It is obvious that if I there ,is a strong tension on the thread when the work is moved," and the thread thereby drawn lateral movement of the work, a" liability of the needle beingdrawn to onezsid'e and there-' a whole is, to so construct -it that all the ten ll be removed from the thread when the work-clamp is opened for the purpose of manually'movin the work. The means for his object will now be deaccomplishing t scribed.

.The sto motion device inmy present machine, an described in my aforesaid patent of-record fromfwh ichvmy' present application I was: divided, as before -'noted, is caused to act at the time the parts are in position of 4 stitching the finishin end of the butt'on-hole.

And at,the time the hnishing end of the hole is completed the cycle-of amo've'ment of the needle and stitch ,chan'ge mechanism is not 25 attached to it which crosses 30 the machine.

' completed therefore, the tension of the, afoi'e' said second tension device is disengaged from 1 the thread .at the time the button hole "is completed. It is thus evident that to. 5' remove the Balance of tlie'tension on the thread. itis only necessary to tension produced on the same by the tension device designated by K. .'This tension is removed from. thethread by the following release the means.

. A level? R is suitably ivoted on the arm of the machine .as shown in Fig.- 2, and this v lever may be-operated in any usual manner,

bymeans of forexample a connection r*, the

upperen of which is connected to the reai end of said lever R,' .may be in any-suitable manner connected at its other end to a usual.-

foot lever. A connection 1", connects the forward'endof said lever R to the upper member of the Work clamp as seen in Fig. 3,

and by this means the cl'amp'mayhe opened when the lever R is operated.

' A tension release lever r the faqe of the machine, and has aspring r the lath of an extending stud r, which is attac ed to the needle-bar in a usual-mannen- The outer' jend'of the lever Ris bent around'so that a portion of it extends parallel to the-face of tending end (not shown). on the inner side of the lever R'whichis' adapted to engage th lever T e upperend of the lever T -is made wedge shaped, ina usual manner,'--an'd "adapted to enter between the tension disks of from the thread. I I

At the completion of-a button hol e the the tension device K, andrelease the same 40 operator operates the lever R, byusual means at is connected to the lower end of the rod r*, to open ithe' work-clamp for changing or removing the work. This movement of said lever causes the projecting end of the screw 1' to come into en 'agement with the lever '1 andforces t'hewe e shaped end of the same between the tension disks of the tension' deviceK-and thereby. release the tension of the same from the thread.

the said lever is returned by a spring in a usual manner to its normal position which is as shown in Fig. 3. This movement of said lever permits the work-clamp to close,--and also permits the lever'r to return to its normal position. The lever r remains be tween the CllSliSOfillG tension K until the machine is started, when the descent of the" needIe-har'bring's the stud r into engagenient with the spring 9, and the said tension is thereby returned to its normal position. It is thus understood that the tension is removed from the thread after the completion of a hole, and remains removedfrom the same until the parts are in position to cornis pivoted at r on.

Through this portion. of the said'lever a screw 1' passes and has an the.

I When the ope-r- 50 ator releases the lever R, after the said action,

-work' moving mechanism for fthemaking of said endstitch stitches.

2 A' button -hole .machine comprising. means for making the. end and side stitches mence another button-hole, 'and 'the needle commences. to descend to" make the first stitch of the same. i v Y A Th'e'mechanism which I have described is a preferred form of my invention, and" it is to be noted that I do not wish to beconfin'ed to thislpxarticular form, asit "s evid' nt that 'many without departing' from the spirit of my invention-.

The term tension devide' used in the claims 0 angesmight be" ma e inte same is tobe understoodto include within its scope any means for. ,produc'ing'a tension on t atone place on the thread, or a'phiralityof places or points; on the threadtoproduce a tension on the same. r

What I claim-as new-is:

'1. A button 'hole rnachine comprising means for making .the end i and side ,stit-ches of a button-hole, a work moving and means actuatedseparatelyfrom-the said tensionon the thread i of one extent during.

'fer'ent extent of abuttonJhole, a device; for producing a tension on the thread during themakingof said stit'ches, a work moving mechanism, and means actuated separately from the said- -work moving mechanism for device and thereby changing tension produced. on the thread by the same.

, J mechamsm,

producing as; and eta dif during the making of said side :thread, whethergthat'mea'nsconsists j of a single part arranged \to'produce a tension on the thread, orofa plurality of parts. acting ng ging said the degree of '3. :A b'uttonhole machine comprising ineans for making the end and side stitches of a button-hole, -a..tensiondev ce for the thread; a tension change device for engaging said tension device, mechanism for actuating said tension change, device, and means for suspending. the action of said mechanism during the making of the side stitchesrof said button-hole.

4-. A button-hole machine comprising a" tension device forythe thread, a-revolving part, means intermediate said I'eVOlVlIlQ part and sa d tension device wherebv the egree of tension produced on the thread by thc same is changed from the movement of said revolving'part, and means for suspending the engagement with the said actuating pawl.

, chine, a. work moving mechanism, a needle.

I for'j'the thread, a cam, a connection between the said carnland the tensiondevice, a ratchet 'wheelfor actuating th'eflcam; an-jactuating. pawl normally out of engagement with the teeth ofv thes-ratchetwheel, and means forl bringing the teethof the 'ratchet [wheel into engaglementwithjthe said pawl-x; & a st-itchfermi-ng mecltanism,-ai eedin mechani'sml a tension device for the thread,

from the feeding: mechanism,'forlbperating the said 'awl, 'and"means'-'inter1'ned1 ate the ratchet w 'eel and the tension devicewhereby when -the ratchet -lis operated the degree. of "tension on thethread is varied.

8. 'In combination in a button-hole. sewing I machine, stitchv formingmech'anism, feeding inechanism comprising an intermittingly ro- I tating'feed Wheel, a tension fclevice forlthei ao threadfa ratchet 'wheel, a vibrating pavql -,normally outi'ofengageinent with the teeth.

("if "ing xlratchetwhee means intermediate the a For 1 feed "wheel and? the ratchet wheel wherebyEthe vibIatingpawl is brought into enga ement ,-with, the' t-eeth of the ratchet gf fwhee '-ai'1d' 'fnieansintermediate vthe said i'atch et" wheel and the tension devicewherethe tension on the thread-is increased and decreased. I

i '9. Iii-combination in a butto'n-hole rimand stitch change mechanism that. isactu ated separately from said work moving mechanism, a tension device for the thread, a tenon change device adapted. to engage said ension device, and means adapting said nee- 5 e'and stitch change mechanism to operate said tension change device. a

10: In combinationin a button-hole machine, means-for making the end andside stitchesof'a button-hole comprising a reciprocating and laterally vmoving needle, mech anism for shiftin 'Ilat'erallythe working pOSij tion of's'aid need e from one 'tothelother side we? a button-hole, a tension. device; for the thread, a tension change Ideviceadapted to eng e said tension device, and. means adapting said mechanism to operate-said tension I I a cam, a toothed wheel carried by said cam, i

iiig cam adapted to operate saiddever, and

means connected to said lever whereby during themovement ofthe same in one dire'camutilated fraltchet, 3 wheel, a pawl,' means .for" bringing the teeth of the ratchet-wheel into 'engagementwith the pawl, means-separate- II v'ice' andthereby change the degree of tention the needle and stitch changemechanism' is operated the tension device engaged and the. tension on the thread. thereby decreased a andinc'reased 12.- vIn combination in a button-hole machine', means-for making the end and. side" stitches of"a'button-hole, a tension device, a

"tensionchange device, a pivoted leverinwhijch:a cam' groove is formed, a connectionbetween said cam groove and said tension change device, and means for actuating said lever, so that said tension change device is" actuated :to reduce and increase the tension I II -:pro'duced on the thread by the tension device 11 a. button-hole sewm :machine, [a

during the movement in one directionof said lever. 1 13-. A button-hole machine comprising a ing-need e, awork moving mechanism, a ten- I sionde vice for the thread, a tension change device, a mechanism adapted to, automatically change the extent of the lateral vibrations :of'said needle'and to simultaneously therewith'eng'age the said tension change de'-' sion; produced on the thread by the same, and means for actuating said mechanism said means being separate from'the aforesaid work moving mechanism.

14. In combination in a button-hole Inachine, a'Work-car'rier confinedto-move longitudinally ofa button-hole only, means for operating; said Work carrier, mechanism I ada ted-to-cooperate with the movement of sai work-carrier to make the .end and side stitches of a button-hole, a tension device .forthe thread, and means operated from a moving part of said mechanism for engaging said tension device and releasing the tension of the same from thethread.

15; A sewing machine comprising a stitch formingimechan'ism for making the side and end stitches of a button-hole, a work moving mechanism comprising a feed wheel,'1neans for controlling said stitch forming mechanism for making the said end and side stitches I comprising a toothed wheel the axis of which is coincident with the axis of said feedwheel, a tension device for the thregn'l, means adapt: ing said controlling mechanism to change thedegree of tension produced on thethread by said tension device, and means for actuating said toothed wheel separately from the.

feedwheel. ',1

16. Abutton-hole machine comprising a tension device 1 for-the thread," ineansgfor changing the degree of tension producedon the thread by said tension device comprising a gapin' the teeth of said toothed wheel," an actuating pawl-that beats timein the sald gapi'during the stitching of the sides of the lbutton. hole, and means for brin" the actuatingpawlg ,ve'rticall reciprocating and laterally vibrat-' tension chan 'ng the degree of tension'produced on [A buttondiole'ih'achine comprising a device'for the thread, means for the t read by said tension device comprismg a cam, a toothed Wheel carried bysaid cam, an actuating pawl for said toothed wheel normally out of engagement with the teeth of the same, means for adyusting'angu-v larly the said toothed Wheel re ative to said 'cam, and means for bringing the teeth of said toothed wheel into engagement with said actuating pawl.

18. A button-hole machine com rising a vertically reciprocating and lateral yvibrating needle, a Work movmg mechanism, a needle change mechanism, means for operating said needle change mechanism said means being separate from the work moving mechanism, a tension change mechanism, and means for operating said tension change mechanism from the action of said needle change mechanism.

' 19..A button-hole sewing machine com-.

tension change;

tension device for the anism, and means operatedfrom the move- 'ment of said second revolving mechanism for changing the tension produced on the thread by the aforesaid tension, device.

20. A button-hole machine comprising a tension device-tor the thread, a work moving. mechanism 'ompi'isin-g a-feed wheel, a echanism, a revolving part for operating tll'esame, and means for revolving said revolving speed than said 'fe'e wheel.

21. A button-hole machine com rising a part at a higher rate of C verticallv reciprocating and latera 1y moving n ed e, a tension device, a tension change (l6\ 1CG,'.fOI engaging said tension device, a lever, a connection between said lever and said laterally moving needle, a connection. between said lever and said tension change device, and means whereby during the movement of said lever in one direction the 0x tent of the lateralmovement of the needle is' increased and, decreased andthe tension rease and inchange device is actuated to de he thread by crease the tension produced on the tension devic p a In testimony vfhereof I have hereunto set my hand in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

, WILLIAM N. PA RKES.

"itri'esses: I EL'GEXIE P. HEfi-nRIcKsox, G120. W. EISENBRAUN. 

